Alright, continuing yesterday's stories, I forgot to mention that the king of Saudi Arabia was in London the same days we were, and that really fucked up a lot of what I wanted to do. First of all, why is any civilized country trying to consort with him? That's how we got into trouble with Saddam in the first place. Yes, he may be the least evil in the region, but by looking the other way, we're just setting the stage for a larger disaster later. Granted, he's not torturing and murdering his subjects to the extent that Saddam was (they're more than happy to do that themselves and are actually upset with him that he's not doing more of it, which is more craziness that I just don't understand), but still, any human rights violation should not be tolerated. It's bad enough that our own government won't give us the rights we deserve, we shouldn't go encouraging other rulers that are even worse. Anyways, plenty of Britons were furious about it too, which was nice to see. While our leaders may have lost their minds, at least the people still know right from wrong and hopefully upcoming elections in both countries will start to set things right. But, I digress. The point is, the king apparently decided to go everywhere that I had wanted to go, which meant that everything I wanted to see was shut down to accomodate him. There was no changing of the guard because they were too busy protecting him, we couldn't get anywhere near Buckingham because of security concerns, and at the Tower, we had to wait an extra hour to jump on the City Cruise boat back to Westminster because they shut the riverfront area down for an hour to accommodate him. By that time I was seriously considering stopping by the Old Bailey and getting a restraining order. The man was following me everywhere and really fucking up my trip. So, we had to go with our second choices of things to see. We caught the Big Bus right by the hotel and took it around the western edge of the central zone, through Kensington and Chelsea, and past the Marble Arch. We then hopped on another bus and went through Picadilly and by Westminster Abby and then to the east side. We went through Fleet Street, where there are no more meat pie shops, and I wanted to get a picture of a street sign that said "Fleet Street", but we flew past all of them, so that didn't happen. I actually didn't get that many pictures in London. It's kind of like New York in that everything is so big it's impossible to get a good picture of anything, you can only get a small part of any building or monument, and usually it's not worth trying. I wanted to do the London Dungeon, which is kind of a Wisconsin Dells-styled indoor amusement park, but my companion does not like rides and I didn't want to waste his time while I wandered through it, so we rode past and got off at the Tower, where thanks to King Abdullah, we spent most of the afternoon. It was very nice though, and definitely the one thing to see. The only disappointment is that they don't allow cameras in the building with the crowns or the crown jewels, which of course were the two buildings that I most wanted to take pictures in. I can understand why they don't allow it, but it was still very disappointing. However, it was totally worth seeing, and we had a great time. Once the waterfront opened back up, we hopped on the City Cruise boat and went back to Westminster, which was nice. We got to see the new Globe Theater as well as some other buildings that the busses speed past, and the captain had an incredibly hilarious commentary going the entire time. At the end he mentioned that they're going to go all automatic in a few weeks and retire all the captains, which is really too bad, it was his commentary that made the trip worthwhile. I'd strongly encourage City Cruises to rethink that decision. Anyways, we went back towards Picadilly and did some shopping. I went into the Virgin store hoping to pick up some cast albums, and was seriously disappointed with the quality of the store. I was looking for a recording of Jerry Springer and the Song & Dance two disc set with Sarah Brightman (it's the only in print recording of Variations currently available), but the showtunes section was abysmally small and had the same stuff we can find here, and actually, even less of it. There was Mamma Mia, Phantom, Les Miz (but only the concert version, not even the original London recording, which is still the best), the Lion King, and that was about it. They did have We Will Rock You, but I really didn't care about that. I went to the Pop/Rock section to check out Sarah Brightman in the hopes that they might have S&D there, and they didn't, but they did have her 1996 album "Fly", which was never released in the States. I picked that up, along with a recording of Verdi's "Attila", which is also very hard to come by here, and Fly is a fabulous CD. It's too bad she didn't continue down that road, it would have been a worthwhile trip. It's kind of like listening to the Carpenters' first CD (Ticket to Ride) and wondering what could have been had it been successful and they decided to go with that sound instead of the "Close to You" sound, or if Barbra had stuck with disco or Bette with "The Rose" style rock. Still, it's a fabulous CD and totally worth tracking down. I had actually left my companion to go there while he went to some other stores, and we were supposed to meet at the statue of Eros after about half an hour. I got there before he did and suddenly had a flashback to this dream I had a few months ago. At the time, he had been out of town on business, and our phone line quit working. I kept checking on it all night because I needed to use the internet, and kept getting a dead receiver every time I turned the phone on. When I went to bed, I had a dream that we were in London and had split up and he was supposed to call me when he was done with whatever he was doing, but my phone wouldn't work. As the dream progressed, it was getting closer and closer to curtain time for Billy Elliot and my phone still wasn't working and I couldn't find him and I was getting so worked up about it until I woke up in a panic that we were missing Billy Elliot. So, as I was standing there waiting for him, and he didn't arrive exactly on time (which is not unusual at all for him), I was like "Oh my god, this is my dream happening!" and started freaking out until he showed up a few minutes later. We then went to a luggage store and got a fabulous carry on (although I'm still plenty pissed we had to buy it in the first place) and then caught the Big Bus back to Westminster where we hopped off and got on the subway (for another $8) and went back to the hotel. We changed, spent another $8 apiece, and got to the Victoria stop where the theatre was waiting in all its resplendent glory as we walked up out of the station. I got the tickets and then we walked around and found a place for dinner. I unfortunately don't remember the name of it, but it was very good, although our waitress disappeared right at the end of the meal and we cut it really close getting back to the theatre on time because we were waiting for her to get the check. But, we made it and, as I expected, had fantastic seats. We were exactly in the middle (row N), right under the edge of the balcony, and on the aisle, which my companion always appreciates. I got a T-Shirt before it started and then went ahead and bought a program at intermission, it was so good I wanted everything I could get. Usually I don't get souveniers, the shirts are usually cheaply made, and everything else just piles up, but this was so worth it, and the shirt is actually very well made. It has an official Billy Elliot tag instead of a Fruit of the Loom tag, which right there says Quality. Anyways, the lights came down on schedule and the B&W newsreel started, and then the trumpet opening of The Stars Shine Down started and I totally got chills. Then, a couple showed up and needed us to let them into the aisle, which completely distracted me as the miners were arguing and about to go on strike, but we let them in. However, they got halway down the aisle, couldn't find their seats, and then came back and we had to let them out again. Of course they were being totally loud and as obstructive as possible about it. Fortunately, the two seats in front of us were empty and they just sat down there until intermission when they got an usher and found their seats. It really made me appreciate the Lyric Opera, which has a strict no admittance after curtain time policy. But, I got right back into the show, and it was fabulous. The only thing that threw me, is that it wasn't loud. I could actually make out the individual instruments in the orchestra, and the singers' voices actually blended in well. At first it sounded really wrong and I wondered what the problem was, but then I realized, this is what a real, non-overamplified orchestra with un-body-miked singers sounds like. It's not just a wall of noise, it's actually music, and I loved it. Plus, we didn't have those ugly body mikes which look like huge silver pimples distracting us. I really hate those. The story was so moving and of course, the music was just as good as it is on CD. The only drawback is that they all had THICK English accents and I couldn't always understand what they were saying, but I got the gist of it and loved it. My companion loved it too. He hadn't heard the CD at all (compared to the hundreds of times I've heard it) and hadn't even known it was a musical until I told him we were going to see it when we first started planning the trip earlier this year. He hadn't even seen the movie, and he was so thrilled with the show. It really was a night to remember. Everyone was great, but I really have to give props to Sam Angell (I think that's spelled right) who played Billy that night. I can't believe he's only 13, he has quite a future in dance and musical theatre ahead of him. It truly was a performance beyond his years. As expected, I had tears in my eyes by the end, and hated to leave, even after 3 hours (it's so rare that shows are that long any more, it's nice to have that engrossing of a story that we barely noticed the time flying by). We headed back to the hotel and packed, and got both of our carry ons into the new carry on. We went to bed and in the morning got up, finished packing, had breakfast, and hopped into a cab to Heathrow. Now, this was where any unraveling that we can legitimately claim to have happened did happen. I just hate flying to start with, and dealing with airports just adds insult to injury, and I was already pissed about the whole carry on thing. The airlines are never going to fully recover until they stop treating their customers like criminals (and like ATM's, but that's a little later). Granted, 6 years ago 19 criminals did get on 4 airplanes and have caused no end of trouble, but still, there's got to be a better way to handle the situation. It does no good to make everyone go through security and then randomly select half the flight for additional screening beyond that at inconvenient times. Either fully screen everyone or don't bother. Anyways, without going into all the details, let's just say that while Heathrow doesn't fully deserve its reputation as the worst airport in the world (an honor I give to Charles DeGaul in Paris), it's close. They do have nice shopping once you get through check in and security though, which would take some of the sting out of the experience, except then you have to go through another level at the gate when you're carrying all the stuff you've just bought and trying to get it into the one carry on you're allowed, which is what I found really annoying. The flight was operated by American, so I knew it was not going to be pleasant. They are one of the most notorious for nickel and diming, and sure enough, it as a repeat of Aer Lingus. They tried to charge me $5 for a glass of wine, so I said forget it and had pop throughout the trip. There was no good entertainment (again, it was License to Wed, who the hell thought that after not wanting to see it in theatres, we'd want to see it on an airplane, the only envirnoment more unpleasant than a movie theatre?) So, I continued my Sondheim festival and got into Into the Woods (having started with Company on the way over and working through the shows chronologically through the trip) by the time we landed. Fortunately, US customs wasn't too bad and we got our luggage without any problem and made it home. So now, I'm battling jet lag but getting over my cold. And with that, it's time to leave again. On a final note, it was sad to have the trip bookended by the deaths of two greats, Deborah Kerr the day we left, and Robert Goulet, the day we got back. They will both be missed.